Natural Cotton Color, Texpar and The LYCRA Company have partnered to develop two new knits combining organic colored cotton from Paraíba with LYCRA® Renewable yarn. Named Coton LYCRA® and Piqué LYCRA®, these references were presented at the Première Vision Paris trade show, from September 1 to 3.
The Coton LYCRA® reference contains 4% LYCRA® Renewable yarn in its composition, while the Piqué LYCRA®, designed as a premium-profile knit, contains 2%. Both fabrics use a 30/1 twisted cotton for the knit. The LYCRA® Renewable yarn has a biobased content of 70%, derived from corn, and would reduce CO2 emissions by up to 45% compared with conventional elastane.
A supply chain born in Brazil's Nordeste
Organic colored cotton is grown by family farms in the backcountry of the state of Paraíba, in Brazil's Nordeste region. After the decline of conventional crops in this semi-arid region in the 1990s, researchers at Embrapa Coton, in Campina Grande, crossed native colored species with more resistant varieties, a varietal improvement that increased fiber length and strength and made industrial application possible. Because the fiber is naturally pigmented from the moment it is grown, no chemical dyeing is required. The cotton used by Natural Cotton Color and Texpar is certified organic and carries the GOTS label, a standard recognized in 73 countries.
The cotton is supplied by ITACOOP, a cooperative bringing together 90 family farmers from Ingá and 11 other municipalities in the state, across 450 hectares of productive land, with storage infrastructure valued at around 6 million reais. Of this total, 1.2 million reais is said to have been invested by private companies taking part in the project, among them NCC, Texpar, Cataguases and Dalila Têxtil.
A long-standing industrial partnership
Texpar processes the raw material, while Natural Cotton Color, led by Francisca Vieira, contributes its expertise in sustainable fashion on the international market. Originaire of the state of Paraíba and the daughter of a cotton producer, she has become one of the leading figures behind the supply chain. Under her leadership, Natural Cotton Color has been the only Brazilian representative at events such as Maison d'Exceptions and Pure London, the latter participation having come on the invitation of the International Trade Centre.
According to available information, Texpar is said to have invested around 10 million reais in an industrial finishing range, as part of a partnership with Natural Cotton Color that is said to have lasted 20 years.
« Chez The LYCRA Company, nous cherchons à développer des technologies qui contribuent à réduire l'impact environnemental sans renoncer à la performance. Ce partenariat illustre comment l'union de l'innovation, du savoir-faire technique et des matières premières locales peut renforcer l'ensemble de la chaîne de production », says Maria Luiza Amaro, Marketing director at The LYCRA Company, based in Wilmington, Delaware.
Two events, two audiences
At Première Vision Paris, samples were presented at the Forum Innovation, Technologie et Développement durable, where Natural Cotton Color will be the first Brazilian company invited to present its textile supply chain in an educational format, from the capsule and raw fiber through to fabric and finished pieces. The new products will also be presented in Milan, at an event held during Fashion Week, from September 22 to 28, where outfits designed from these new knits will be included in the beachwear collection of the Brazilian brand Celeste.
