Chan Luu, a brand founded in 1996 by Vietnamese-born designer Chan Luu, is now establishing itself in ready-to-wear, a territory the brand had nonetheless paused before the pandemic after exploring it on a small scale alongside fine jewelry and artisanal accessories. According to WWD, the brand would launch in October on Net-a-porter, under the direction of chief executive and creative director Tessa Tran.
The category's growth is clear: ready-to-wear accounted for 15% of the brand's e-commerce business last year, compared to nearly 50% today, according to WWD. The outlet reports 400% growth for this category alone, while the company's gross revenue is up 60% since the start of the year compared to the same period last year. Overall e-commerce is up 64% year over year, and wholesale is up 20%, with partners including Moda Operandi, Fwrd, Shopbop and Nordstrom.
This momentum rests on a distinctive internal trajectory. Tessa Tran joined the company as an intern before rising through its ranks; in 2014, the founder had sold a majority stake to private investors, and Tran then bought the company back entirely in 2023. « J'ai toujours été intéressée par le vêtement, et j'avais cette idée de créer une ligne de vêtements qui serait comme un accessoire, parce que Chan Luu est une marque d'accessoires », she explains.
The designer describes a continuous approach rather than a disposable-collection logic, with what she calls « une ligne centrale qui n'a pas de porte tournante ». Among the standout pieces are the Techno Taffeta trousers, offered in gold yellow and fuchsia pink this spring, the Pinch Waist Cardigan and the Vienna Coat. The brand has also presented at the New York Fashion Weeks in February and September over the past year, including recently at Marcel, on the Upper East Side.
Artisanal production as a point of pride
Design begins at Tran's studio in Los Angeles and continues through family-run workshops in Vietnam, Mongolia and India. « Je ne conçois pas pour une cliente spécifique mais pour un mode de vie, quelqu'un qui veut être à l'aise tout en paraissant et se sentant soigné. Je ne fais pas de basiques », Tran notes, also describing her bond with the founder: « Nous sommes séparées par des décennies et je l'admire énormément. Même avec cet écart d'âge, nous sommes attirées par les mêmes vêtements. »
According to WWD, May was the brand's best month in its history for e-commerce, achieved without discounts or promotions. Still, for Tran, this commercial acceleration comes with a personal investment in production that she claims as her own: « J'aime vraiment voir l'entreprise grandir, et aussi avoir plus de contact direct avec le produit, le toucher, et pouvoir être en Inde pour concevoir en personne. »
