Sixty-eight shows in nine days: Paris Fashion Week Women's Spring/Summer 2027 opens on September 28, 2026 and closes the international season. Not every appointment carries the same weight.
Two French houses are presenting a new artistic direction, two others are returning to the Paris calendar after having left it, and one expected house is not on it. Here is what structures the week, house by house.
The season's two debuts
Drew Henry at Courrèges, September 30 at 10:30 a.m.
Courrèges opens Wednesday with the first collection by Drew Henry, named on March 31, 2026.
His background is that of a practitioner more than a signature name: trained at Central Saint Martins, he was a designer at Céline under Phoebe Philo, design director of ready-to-wear at JW Anderson, then senior design director at Burberry alongside Daniel Lee. This is his first artistic director position.
He succeeds Nicolas Di Felice, who left after five years to focus on personal projects. The house is controlled by Artémis, the Pinault family's holding company.
The stakes lie in Courrèges's own vocabulary: geometry, whiteness, the sixties. A heritage unlike any other, which is as much an asset as a constraint for whoever has to make it evolve.
Kai Nesselrath at Carven, October 1 at 12:30 p.m.
Second and last debut of the season. Kai Nesselrath arrives after ten years at Saint Laurent, where he was head designer. He succeeds Mark Thomas, who was in the role for one year.
These two appointments have been reported by the trade press. The FHCM publishes a calendar, not editorial comment: it neither confirms nor denies them.
The major houses, day by day
The calendar spreads the established houses across the whole week rather than concentrating them on two days.
Tuesday, September 29 opens the sequence with Christian Dior at 2:30 p.m., Maison Margiela at 5:30 p.m. and Saint Laurent at 9 p.m.
Thursday, October 1, Balenciaga shows at 2 p.m., preceded by Chloé in the morning and followed by Schiaparelli in the evening.
Friday, October 2 runs Loewe at 11:30 a.m. and Givenchy at 5:30 p.m.
Saturday, October 3 is Hermès's day, at 3 p.m., amid the week's heaviest concentration of Japanese houses.
Sunday, October 4 brings together Miu Miu at 1 p.m. and Valentino at 3:30 p.m.
Monday, October 5, Chanel closes the evening at 8 p.m.
Tuesday, October 6, Louis Vuitton closes the week at 6:30 p.m.
Dior and Chanel, two opposite situations
Jonathan Anderson has overseen all of Dior's fashion collections, men's, women's and haute couture combined, since June 2025: a scope no one had held before him at the house. September 29 will be his third women's ready-to-wear show.
His first two collections divided critics. But in its first-half 2026 results, LVMH stated that the Fashion and Leather Goods division returned to organic growth in the second quarter, after seven consecutive quarters of decline, and attributed part of this recovery to Anderson's first creations.
At Chanel, Matthieu Blazy has been artistic director of fashion activities since April 2025, a scope covering haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories. October 5 will be his third seasonal ready-to-wear collection, and his seventh across all categories.
The difference between the two lies in timing. Anderson must confirm a recovery that has already been quantified; Blazy is approaching his first season in which the outcome can no longer be attributed to the novelty effect that accompanied his debut.
Returns to the Paris calendar
Maison Margiela returns to Paris after a detour that was anything but trivial. On April 1, 2026, Glenn Martens presented the autumn-winter collection in a shipyard in Shanghai, with staging designed by OMA/AMO: the first time the house had shown outside Paris since its founding in 1988.
The economic backdrop lends weight to this return. Over fiscal year 2025, the OTB group declined 4.8%, to 1.7 billion euros. Margiela posted the group's best performance, with growth of 8.4%.
Valentino is also returning, after several seasons presented in Rome. Sacai, Ester Manas, Christopher Esber and Casablanca are also on the calendar.
Maxhosa Africa, a South African house, is making its first appearance, on opening day.
Absences from the provisional calendar
Rabanne does not appear on the provisional calendar currently published by the FHCM. The house parted ways with Julien Dossena after thirteen years and named Olivier Rousteing; according to the trade press, its runway debut is expected the following season.
Alaïa appears on the calendar as a presentation, on October 3, with no artistic director named since the departure of Pieter Mulier.
An absence from the provisional calendar prejudges nothing: the document may still change before the opening, and a house may present off-calendar. The full programme can be consulted on the FHCM's official calendar.
A season with a strong Japanese presence
Eleven Japanese houses are on the programme: Anrealage, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons, Noir Kei Ninomiya, Sacai, Undercover, Mame Kurogouchi, CFCL and Ujoh.
They are concentrated at the end of the week, with Saturday, October 3 alone bringing together Junya Watanabe, Noir Kei Ninomiya and Comme des Garçons.
And on the hiring front?
A change of artistic direction is never limited to a name on an invitation card. It involves a studio, production teams, and commercial roles tasked with supporting the repositioning in stores.
Catwalks aggregates open opportunities in fashion, luxury and beauty, so that professionals can follow the sector's movements all the way down to the job market.
